Friday, September 27, 2013

APW: Long Days

How to describe my last week from Korat, Thailand to Siem Reap, Cambodia to Bangkok, Thailand in 30 minutes before my internet time and money for the evening diminishes?

I consider listing all the events, emotions, and experiences that have transpired to the tune of “We Didn’t Start the Fire,” but my brother beat me to it.

Instead, we bring on the prose.

A cocktail of local vibes, exuberant tourism, misplaced debit cards, durian smelling cramped public transport, the only tall farang on the bus, bicycle cruising through millennia old temple cities, ‘you buy this, we make you discount, good good price,’ six on a motorbike, twelve in a tuk-tuk!, joyous hospital visits from Thai moms, Thai volleyball world champs, Cambodian hangovers, and ono grinds all around.
I relate a sequence of events to symbolize the week.

An 11 hour bus ride from Siem Reap to Bangkok.  2 hours of which are spent at the Cambodian – Thailand border, where they could have filmed Indiana Jones.  Many wear protection on their face from breathing in the dust.  Market vendors selling baguettes, amok fish, grilled kabobs over open flame, fresh fruits, dirty politics, all cheap cheap.  Lots of scams at this border, best to arrange transportation ahead of time.   Individual persons carry truck loads of concealed goods utilizing the mother of invention, the wheel, and its balance.  No camels or elephants at this crossing though I wouldn’t have blinked an eye, except for the fact that Durians, Mangoes, Pineapples and Camels generally don’t live together. 

Besides drivers on the one side of the road in Poipet and on the other in Aranya Prathet, the sense and culture between Kingdoms is drastically different.  Strange to compare traveling the same distance in America and arrive from the East to West end of North Dakota.  Came across many different nationalities and accents thus far, though very few Americans.

I arrive in Bangkok after the exciting ride of weaving in and out traffic, ignoring street lines, and chasing the buffaloes off the road into rice fields.  I stretch out.  All in good order after the 17 people (and the unfortunate tag-along Durian) pour out of the van at Khao San Rd, old city Bangkok (tourist and backpacker hub).  I link up with two Germans and head to a well recommended guesthouse for 200 baht a night, in a quiet, less touristic 10 minute walk from Old City.

We check into a non-computerized guesthouse by an older Thai guy not budging from the encroaching modern world, drop our bags, and check out the street vendors.  First thing I do in Bangkok: grab an appetizer of scorpions and crickets (the texture raises your awareness that you are eating an insect, though the flavor is masked well by the shoyu-chili-lime-crispiness).  Then I enjoy the best Pad Thai of my life made in front of me in a steaming hot wok, with 8 different toppings to add on afterwards from 4 variations of hot peppers to peanuts to dried shrimp.  Did I mention that this large portion cost 30 baht, equivalent to 1 US Dollar?  Afterwards we stuffed our bellies a little bit more with a banana and chocolate pancake, cooked on hot plate to order, with the classic Thai-style addition of sweet condensed milk.

So after the day of traveling 500k, I filling up my belly, taking a hot shower, and sleeping in a clean guesthouse, I spend under 20 US Dollar.  I almost got the massage too that night, though I saved it for the next day, keeping my average below 20 instead of below 25 USD.  It is no wonder why SE Asia is so widely visited by Europeans, Asians and Australians. 

I am leaving Thailand tomorrow morning to Nepal.  And though I’ve been reading Buddhist texts and learning from some amazing folk here, I am not going to distance myself and emotions from the ‘I-Self’ just yet, at least not as a writer.  I have had some beautiful experiences here in this country on the farm in rural Isaan, in the breathtaking temples of Bangkok, and the smells and smiles on the street from my basic efforts at the Thai tonal language.  If I come back here after Nepal,  I would love to spend some time in the North, visit Pun Pun and Pai, have a lengthier stay at Rak Tamachat, see friends who I’ve made in the brief time here, and possibly check out Laos and Vietnam.  I would be very pleased with that path if it were placed before me. 

That being said, what is front of me now is Nepal.  I smile knowing its existence and my path cross tomorrow after all-time and no-time.  I accept the unknowing future, and can only take the self that I’ve become to brave the road ahead.  I share with you the (paraphrased) wisdom of a Cambodian Tuk-Tuk Driver, who is no stranger to war, hardship, and the joys of this beautiful life. 

‘There are accidents in this world, and there is too, good all around.  Us meeting is so very lucky.  Until next time, I will see you when you see me, and good luck to you and good luck to me!

In both a literal and figurative sense, every time we had a drink of beer all 5 of us would raise our glasses together and say “Chuk Moi’e,” which translates to “Cheer Up!”

As Jeanette Winterson writes in the Passion, ‘I’m telling you stories, trust me.'

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